Seed Stitch washcloth tutorial Part 1

By Grover Koelpin No comments


Well good mornin’ sunshine! I am happy to see you here today. I am going to show you how to knit this seed stitch washcloth. The color pattern that you see is called
“planned pooling” or “color pooling.” I call it color pooling because I did not plan
it, but it looks like I did, and I will take credit for that. And it makes this X
with the mixture in the middle, and then it comes up to these corners. If I had
continued out longer and made a very wide scarf out of this it would have
come back to this cross here and we would have whites and crosses and it
would look absolutely fabulous. And we do that with this variegated yarn that
as it comes off the spool, it changes colors. So it goes red to white to navy
blue, back to white, back to red. So we’re using the Lilly sugar and cream 100%
cotton to make this seed stitch dishcloth and we are using Boye brand
size 8… I don’t know if you can see it’s very shiny Size 8 – 5 millimeter knitting
needles. These are aluminum knitting needles, so they slip really really well
with the cotton yarn and they’re just delightful to work with. I am now ready to cast on 35 stitches
using the long-tail cast-on method. The easiest way to figure out how long your tail needs to be for the long-tail cast-on method is to wrap your yarn around your needle: one wrap for every stitch you want to do. Make sure that when
you’re wrapping you don’t wrap too far apart because once you close it up,
you’ll see that it’s super baggy, and you’ll have a huge long leftover tail
bit at the end. And also at the same time you don’t want them too tight because
then you couldn’t possibly stretch them out and use them as a stitch, so you’ll
end up running out of yarn before you get to the end of your — end of your cast
on. You’ll run out of long-tail. So about as far apart as stitches would normally be
on your needle to make your project. We’re gonna do seed stitch, so I want to
make sure to do an odd number so that my seed stitch makes more sense to my brain. And we’ll end with — begin and end with knit on both sides. One, two, three, four,
five… 32, 33, 34, 35. Now I know that that is how many wraps I need for my 35 cast-on. So I’m going to do my very favorite part. I have to hold this little white piece
with my left hand and go *vzzzzzzzz!* Haha! I love that part! So after you *vzzzz* it back off,
you’ve got your needles here ready to go, and you’ve held where your end was, you’re gonna tie your slip knot right there where your end was. Holding right
here where the end of my long-tail is, I’m gonna do my slip knot which is going
to go over, under, and across. I’m going to pinch here, where my end of my long tail
is so I don’t lose it. And I’ve got my cross here. Up between the two fingers,
reach and grab that extra piece, pull tight. I do have this little extra piece
here between my — where my long tail ended and my knot. That’s ok, gives me a little
extra tail, make sure I don’t run out too soon. One
more time for the slipknot. Holding where I end my tail: over, under, across, grab it, in between, pinch, pull off. I have it even longer, but that’s okay. So there is my slipknot. I put my needle in, pull on the ball string. So now we have long-tail string has blue on the end so I can pay attention to it. Long-tail string; ball string. This is attached to my giant cone-o-red-white-and-blue yarn. Ball string. Whoops! Let me get some extra… There we go. So when
you’re ready to cast on, you only need one of your needles for the long-tail
cast-on, set the other one aside, keep the ball company. It’s very friendly and
loves it very much. You have two “legs” coming out of your slipknot. One leg
connects to the ball one leg connects to the tail. You can tell because it’s blue
on the end. You want the tail leg in the back and the ball leg in the front.
You’re going to wrap the tail leg as if to tension. With me, I tension by going
across my pinky, curling between the two fingers, under the pinky, flip the hand
over. So that it makes a cross on the underside. Tuck my first finger under,
turn my hand, and grab my knot. This is how I tension my work, whether I’m
knitting or crocheting. In knitting, this is called Continental Style. Now that I
have my yarn tensioned and my work held the way I want it, I actually let go. Use my three fingers to grab the ball string, this loose piece
here. I’m going to tuck my thumb along my first finger, pull it back and around, and
now I have a teardrop-cross around my thumb. So the ball string makes a
teardrop-cross around the thumb. The tail string is tensioned as if you were going
to really knit with it, and we are going to do the long-tail cast-on method. Long-tail cast-on: you bring your needle up along your thumb so it comes into that teardrop, grab the tail yarn as if you’re going to knit it, bring
it through. You now have a stitch. Now to make this stitch look correct, you pop
your thumb out, bring it down, and drag it out along your ball string to tighten up
this bottom piece. One more time. You bring it back up now you’ve got your
cross again, teardrop just like before. Bring your needle up along your
thumb into the middle of the teardrop, around to grab your tail, through that teardrop again to make your stitch, drop your thumb out, drag it down along the
sti– along the ball string, and you’ve tightened up another stitch. One more
time. Bring it up with the cross, along your thumb, into the middle, grab that tail
string, through to make your stitch. Drop your thumb out, drag it down to tighten
that stitch, and it brings it back up. into the cross. Last time: up in the
middle, catch your stitch, through the middle again, drop, and tension. And it
crosses again! I’m gonna cast on 35. I do count my slipknot as a stitch. I count my
slipknot as a stitch, and then I cast on 34 more after that. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. I’m
gonna go a little slow at first, and then pick up speed so that you can see how
quickly this can be done. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 and 10. That’s gonna be the last of my
slow ones, make sure I’m not tangling and here we go, at speed, that was 10. not hurrying (mumbles 25) I try not to make this pull too tight when I tighten it so that it doesn’t bunch the stitches together and make
them so they don’t spread out nicely. 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21,
nope that wasn’t 25, that was 24. That’s 25 and that should be 35. So I have a bit of
a long tail. That’s perfectly fine. I can either weave that in at the end, or I can
weave that in as I knit my first row. I will probably weave that in with a
needle at the end, just because it is such a dark color it will stand out
really boldly against the white that I’m about to start knitting with off my ball.
Double check your count, always, always double check your count before you start
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12… 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 1
2 3 4 5 perfect. The next thing I do, I tie my loose tail and my ball thread
just in an overhand knot. Very simple, very quick, just cinch and it’s done.
That’s just for me for my aesthetics. It’s not necessary, it’s just what I do.
And now in order to get started knitting, I again wrap my tension. So under, over,
across, tuck under, and rather than grabbing the knot, I grab the whole
needle. So I knit continental style which means I hold my yarn and my needle that
holds all my loops in one hand, and my working needle in the other hand. And it doesn’t do anything but work the stitches. We are going to do seed stitch which is: knit, purl across, turn it over, and then knit the purl stitches and purl the knit stitches. And I’ll show you how to tell
the difference. Starting with knit — good gracious — Knit is: insert under the front
leg, wrap around, bring it back through, toss that stitch off. Now we’re going to
purl. So we bring the yarn to the front, knit in the back of the front leg, wrap
the yarn around, pull it through, toss it off. Back to knit, and the yarn
naturally goes to the back so you don’t have to work on that. And behind the
front leg, through, wrap around, pull through, push off. Back to purl: yarn in
front, under the back — front leg down, out, off. knit: in, around, out, off. Purl: in,
around, out, off. Knit. Purl Knit Purl And as I go, I cinch the work from the
back end, and push it along the new needle so that it’s out of the way and I
don’t have to reach or stretch my stitches to get the next stitch ready to
go near the end of the needle. We want to keep the up-and-coming stitches close to the tip, but not so close that they fall off, while at the same time pushing the
worked stitches out of the way, so that they don’t bunch and push the stitch. Misshaping and malforming and making everything miserable. So the first row is now done. As you look at the stitches… And when I get close to my camera my light goes really wonky. When you look at the stitches, you’ll see some look like a V
or a triangle, and some look like a bump. These V’s are your knit stitches. These
bumps are your purl stitches. So we’ve got knit and purl, knit and purl, knit and
purl. When we flip our work over, we see the same bumps and V’s: knit and purl, knit and purl, knit and purl. You’ll remember that the last stitch we
did was a knit, but here it looks like a purl. So the back of all of your knit
stitches looks like a purl, and the front of all your purl stitches — no, the back of
all your purl stitches looks like a knit. so on the other side we did knit, purl,
knit, purl. Which comes out to look like we did purl, knit, purl, knit. So on this
side, we’re going to again do knit, purl, knit, purl. And it’s going to be knit in
all the purl bumps, purl in all the knit V’s. So this is a purl bump, we’re going to
knit. This is a knit V, we’re gonna purl. Purl bump, we’re going to knit. Knit V, we’re gonna purl. We’re gonna continue that across the pattern. So every time we finish a row we will stop with a knit stitch, turn, and start again with a knit stitch. When I finish this row, I will
switch over to a time lapse and get to the end, because this is the repetitive
part. Knit. So now, we have our cast-on ridge here this first set of purls and
V’s — purl bumps and V’s and then the second set of purl bumps and V’s,
purl bumps and V’s. And now I will do a time lapse until we get to the end.

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