HOW TO INSTALL A RIGID RISER SHOWER KIT – Plumbing Tips

By Grover Koelpin 32 comments


– [James] Plumberparts.co.uk. Honest reviews and advice. Hello, and welcome to today’s
plumberparts.co.uk video. My name’s James, and today, we’re gonna be showing you how to instal a rigid riser rail shower valve, and it’s
gonna be absolutely amazing, so I hope you enjoy. Holla, and welcome to today’s
plumberparts.co.uk video! Today we’re gonna be
doing a video showing you how to change over an old
Colonial shower valve, so, yeah, we’re gonna
change this old shower valve over in there, which I
don’t actually think there’s anything wrong with it, I mean, what could be wrong with, uh, with that? And, uh, and that? (chuckles) Other than that, it’s in
full working condition. We’ve turned the water off already, we’ve also isolated the
power to the shower pump, ’cause this one’s actually
fed by a shower pump, and I’m just gonna show you
how to take the old one off, measure up and put the new
one on, and it’s gonna be absolutely amazing, oh, totally. So yeah, I hope you enjoy the video, and if you have any questions or comments, we’ll talk about that later, yeah? We have questions or comments
at the end of the video, not at the start, so let’s go, hold tight! Right, so the first thing I’m gonna do is, because we’ve got this
upright here, and we’re gonna be changing this
upright, just slacken off the nut that’s on the upstand. There we go, so, just let all
that come out a little bit. Oh, bloody hell. Problem with these
panheads is, loads of water always comes out, and you
always get wet doin’ it. Let’s hope I don’t get the camera wet, hey, people, that would be a catastrophe! All right, so now we’ve
got this slackened off, this should be able to
lift up a little bit. Just let that down like so. That’ll expose the two slotted
screws we need to get at. Take them off, and then
take this out of the way. Before you slacken off
the two nuts on the side, usually you’re gonna
find a grub screw on this base plate here, it’s either
gonna be an allen key, like we’ve got, or a
small slotted screwdriver, so undo that, and that’ll release the main valve body from the
base plate on the wall. Right, so now on each
side you’ve got a little nut just here, and what
we’re gonna do is we’re gonna slack each one of
these nuts off, like so. Just do both sides, just slacken it off ’til it starts to push a
little bit on the valve, you see what it’s doin’
there, sort of movin’ the valve out a little bit. Right, as soon as it’s
got to that point… Go around to the other nut, and undo that. So now that we’ve released
that important grub screw and these two, we should
be able to just pull the valve body off the
pipes and off the wall. There we go, right,
there’s the old one off. Right, you’ll always
find a couple of screws on the base plate, so
you wanna take them off. Give that a little undo. Lovely. Now, at this point, you
could use these old nuts and these old wall plates,
but they look minging, so what we’re gonna have to
do is get these olives off, now, there’s a slight
problem, is that these go to push fit fittings, so they twist, okay, so usually I’d actually
just wring the olive off normally, if I could, but we’re not gonna be able to do that here, I don’t think, so what I’m gonna have to
do is push back this nut, and then very carefully,
using a junior hacksaw, I’m just gonna cut across this
olive and then pop it off. There we go, that’s come loose now. So I should be able to get a
slotted screwdriver in there. And just prize that apart. You see, there’s minimal
damage to the pipe there. And then just prize this off as well. Do that to the other side, and then, ’cause I’ve got quite a
lot of length of pipe here, and it doesn’t take the
risk too much of maybe a cut gettin’ in the
way, I’m just gonna get some pipe slicers on
here and just cut these back a bit so we got a
new bit of pipe to go on. As you can see, the last
douchebag who was here used loads of clear
silicone, so I’m just gonna spend a few minutes
cleanin’ that all up before I get onto the next bit, and I suggest, if you’re removin’ an old shower valve, get yourself a bit of a
scrubbing brush and just clean up behind those
tiles, ’cause it will make the job look miles
better when it’s all finished, so I’m just gonna do that
and yeah, see thee in a sec. (singing) Right, now we’re gonna
measure up the centres for our new bracket,
’cause we’ve gotta pop a new bracket on here. 15 divided by 2 is 7.5. So there’s our centre mark there. So once we’ve got our centre mark here, we then go over the
centre of the two pipes just here, like that,
and then we’ll get that lined up and measured, and then drill your holes and put your plugs in. Should be able to just
drill these normally, but you never know.
(drill whirring) Right, so once you’ve
got your holes drilled, put your plugs in, and
then, I usually just put a little blob of silicone in each one of these, like that. And then use your sexy
Makita impact driver to run ’em in and smash the tiles to bits. Which is not what we’re
gonna do, it’s a joke. (drill whirring) While I’m at it, I’m just
gonna pop a little bit on these old holes as well. We’re nearly ready to
put our new valve on, but I just suggest you get some silicone, try and get it actually
down the gap between the pipe and the wall,
just nice and lightly, and then you can get your plate and just push that lightly over there, like that. Ready for in a second. Do the same on the other side. Right, whilst they’re
setting a little bit, I recommend you take off the two nuts and olives off your shower
valve, then I would actually put on your washers and
actually build these up properly, ready for use. So pop your washer in
there, and just do it up nice and lightly, not too tight. Do the same on the other
side, pop your washer just in here, like so. And then pop that onto your shower valve, do it up nice and lightly, it
doesn’t need to be too tight. So now we’re nearly ready, now, take note, the bottom of the shower
valve, on this one, you’ve got your three mil grub screw, just like on the other one. Just slacken that off, just
out of the way, like so. Now, put your nut and your
olive on each one of the pipes. Remember, we’ve got a
lot of flex on the back of these pipes, you might not have this. And once you’ve got those both on, line up each one of your pipes, like so, and just loosely do up your
nuts and your olives on there. So once you’ve got both pipes in and just slightly nipped up, push the top on first. Then slot onto your bracket. Just like so, now, then, very quickly, push the shower valve
back to the wall where you want it to be, and
then lightly do your grub screw up so it
can’t come off the wall. And then, being careful not
to damage the fitting itself, just lightly do up your
15 mil nuts on both sides. So now, make sure these two are tight, these two are tight, and
make sure your grub screw is tight before going onto the next stage. Right, so now we’ve got
that in, and it’s beautiful. We’re gonna pop a nut
and our olive that we’ve got here onto the bottom
of our shower upstand. Now, have a quick look at
this, ’cause these often need cutting down, so I’m
just gonna have to cut this down, just about there,
just mark that with my thumb. Cut that to length. Pop that in like so. Now, what you can do here
is, I’m gonna bring down our clip and actually use
the old holes on there. Which, if you don’t mind
me sayin’, is very shrewd. Fortunately, our plate here
lines up with the old holes. Which means they should go in nicely, and this should screw
up really rather well. So that’s now screwed in firmly. Now, what we’ve gotta do,
we’ve got the valve in, and we’ve got the upstand
in, is just basically finish off by putting the head on. The heads can come in various
different shapes and sizes. This one here has a small insert on it that goes, actually
screws in directly to the head like that, and then it seals on this rubber O-ring on here,
so you just tighten it up like that, give that a
tighten, that’s ready. It’s also got the ability
for you, if you like, to move it about, which is silly. Then, all you need to do
is screw in your head, like so, onto the thread
here, then once you’ve built it up, you can decide
what length out of the wall you want it to be at, now, I think, personally, it should
probably come back about, probably about this far, so
I’m just gonna cut the pipe. Now, once we’ve cut it
to the length we want, pop it into the fitting, like so. And then, grab your adjustables,
and just tighten this up, making sure this is still
pointed nicely downwards. Lovely, right, now, the next thing to do is make sure that it’s
pointing at right angles out of the wall, like so. And then you can tighten up
your bottom nut by the valve. Gonna tighten that up in there. Now, remember to make sure
all your fittings are tight, so these two here, these
two here, the one here, and the one up the top, then we make sure everything’s turned off,
then we can go downstairs, turn the water back on and everything, dry the whole fitting out,
and then test for leaks. If you’ve got no leaks, big. So, we’ve got the water back on now, we’ve tested for leaks,
we’ve not had any problems, now we just gotta test the
showers operation itself. Here we go! (water running)
Oh my God! And then let’s just test the hot. Yeah, yeah, yep, yep, yep! That’s really hot. So there we go, we’ve
successfully taken off the old shower and disposed
of it, and now we’ve put our lovely new shower valve on, with thermostatic control, and with a nice new little valve here,
and the same upstand, and it’s looking amazing,
we’ve got no leaks, and it works really, really well. If you need any more help
or any more information, either comment on this
video, you can friend us and follow us, okay, at Twitter and Facebook, somewhere here, and also, as ever, you can subscribe to our videos. I hope you’ve enjoyed
today’s video, I hope, you know, you’ve got the
confidence now to maybe change one of these yourself. If you wanna buy this
shower valve, as I said at the start of the video,
click on the link below, I’ve also left links to
my beautiful Makita tools, because I love ’em, they’re brilliant, everyone should have ’em, they’re great. Uh, and anything else I think
might be of interest to you. I hope to see you in next week’s video, and remember, everyone,
because it’s getting warm now, ya’ll gotta go out there,
y’all gotta get yourself a tan, and you gotta hold tight
throughout the night! See you laters! (shouts) Plumberparts.co.uk,
honest reviews and advice. (soft guitar music)

32 Comments

Maya Helyn

Apr 4, 2013, 5:35 am Reply

HI.

Terry Brewer

Apr 4, 2013, 7:40 am Reply

"Then use impact driver to run them in and smash the tiles to bits" haha I was in stitches!

thanxx

Apr 4, 2013, 8:00 am Reply

00:52 was that your tomplum impression there mate? lol.
You should swerve plumbing and try get into TV work mate.
your a natural behind camera.

nikc888

Apr 4, 2013, 8:28 am Reply

monument olive pullers. Will change your life.

Paul Cooper

Apr 4, 2013, 10:52 am Reply

Hi love the videos can you do one that will explain the turn off/on points in a house,were likely you would find these points so I can carry out work with out drowning the place, heating & mains please. Thanks

Stupid Brick

Apr 4, 2013, 11:04 am Reply

Any chance of a couple of videos on plumbers snakes, rodding drains, induced siphonage back siphonage etc? Maybe a video on macerators too if you get the misfortune of working on one 😉

I want to replace my 18v impact driver, I saw in a previous vid you using a 10.8v makita and saying its the mutz nutz. Can you bang in 4 inch screws with the 10.8v impact driver? Also could you drill 25mm holes in joists with the 10.8v drill driver?

Nice video as always mate big up yourself!!!

jamief1979

Apr 4, 2013, 12:09 pm Reply

I thought the vid was gonna be on aav big up

Handyjack

Apr 4, 2013, 4:44 pm Reply

What did you do with all that money?

TheSuperWasherLab

Apr 4, 2013, 5:27 pm Reply

I want to be a plumber

Dion C

May 5, 2013, 12:02 am Reply

I made a account just to say your videos are excellent…if u ever get a chance can you make a video about installing pipes behind walls and covering them please.( is it just plaster board that gets screwed down over the pipes with two hole in?) also a video on chasing pipe. Thank you. HOLL TIGHT (sorry just had to say that)

chrissscottt

May 5, 2013, 10:38 pm Reply

You should have your own cable show. I'm serious, get an agent. Nice singing voice too.

Cheers from down under.

Tyler Hofer

Aug 8, 2013, 4:26 am Reply

I am apprenticing in plumbing and pipe fitting, it's industrial work and everyone uses milwaukee, they hate Mikita, any main differences?

kierankay100

Oct 10, 2013, 12:13 am Reply

Hey great video

Z Szilagyi

Oct 10, 2013, 7:56 pm Reply

Today I had a problem my heating wouldn't want to work I checked the boiler it was working I had hot water I checked the pressure was a litle bit low I raised the pressure up to 1 and a half bar I stopped the hot water heating and only then the heating started to work then I noticed that the pressure started to go up again so I turned the pressure relief velve to let thr pressure back to 1 and a half bar the heating was working for about half an hour the pressure went up again to nearly two bar

Z Szilagyi

Oct 10, 2013, 7:59 pm Reply

Is it ok that during the heating up process the pressure goes up to 2 bar shouldn't the expansion vesell stop that from hapening?

Wesley Howard Stow

Nov 11, 2013, 10:42 am Reply

I really enjoy your videos thanks PP!!

Jack Jones

Nov 11, 2014, 11:55 pm Reply

Good video dude, the shower in my bathroom is built in. The pipe is behind the tiles and the on/off sticks out a bit lower down. There is no pump for it so how does it work ?? Plus the head is a bit bustard so may need replacing how would I go about changing it ?? Thanks mate 🙂 hold tight JJ

jesus jones

Mar 3, 2015, 2:48 pm Reply

NO more SINGING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!    otherwise good video.

james brown

Apr 4, 2015, 2:09 am Reply

Aaa I love the singing, Thanks

David M

Dec 12, 2015, 3:45 am Reply

Enjoying the video as always! I have this same shower kit as the new/replacement kit you fit in the vid, but the wife has asbestos skin, and doesn't find the shower hot enough! Do you have a video on how to turn up the heat? Cheers!

R-77

May 5, 2016, 3:10 pm Reply

why use an adjustable ? why not the correct size spanner ?
cheers .

B M

May 5, 2016, 7:57 pm Reply

do you use uni white or boss white on the compression fittings ??? I was told always to put that stuff on when I was doing my apprenticeship.,

Peter Allen

Jun 6, 2016, 9:30 pm Reply

Love your vids man. What did you cut the chrome riser pipes down with? A pipe slice, or will a jr hacksaw do the job? thanks.

Luke Benbow

Jul 7, 2017, 2:19 am Reply

Hey, James good vid. Where you scared of the loose cold water pipe coming out? Not that you could check for leaks but that would give me nightmares or at least keep me up at night.

Liam Turner

Aug 8, 2017, 6:06 pm Reply

Great video as per usual. Keep up the good work

Goatz yemen

Sep 9, 2017, 9:45 pm Reply

Hi, i followed your instructions, but once i tightened the nuts on the arms of the valve, the arms no longer reach the wall, and there is a large gap. The value is in backplate, which is flush against the wall. Please help! I cant figure out the problem.

Rob 397

Nov 11, 2017, 1:22 am Reply

Hi Mate, I'm about to replace old shower to an overhead type, we also have a combi boiler, will the flow from the boiler cope with that type of shower. Great vids, I think you have the voice for a bee gee's number on the next vid.

Trevor Lee Christian

May 5, 2018, 1:28 pm Reply

Hi James, do you have any videos plumbing this valve into a cavity wall. This bit seems OK but I need to fit a backplate and elbows in the cavity first, then put the cement board up and tile the wall. Do you recommend any particular type of wall anchors for cavity walls?

Ell Woods

May 5, 2018, 10:20 pm Reply

Love your videos. You make me chuckle!

I am swapping over a bar mixer shower for a dual Bath Co. valve. The bar shower is fixed to dog legs (horrible things). As the valve is mounted to the wall do I still dog leg or fixing plates on pipes? New valve weighs three kilos lol.

I’m gonna lower the height of valve so will be redoing elbows and placing sound timber for fixing valve in place; thus can I just leave the pipe unsupported as in this video?

Hope you can help!

Paul O

Jun 6, 2018, 9:28 pm Reply

Your tips are coming in handy . Just started a complete bathroom makeover.

plumberparts

Dec 12, 2018, 10:04 am Reply

Links to the tools I use everyday here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts

Plus, follow my Vlog “TimesWithJames”: http://www.youtube.com/c/timeswithjames

knicol46

Feb 2, 2019, 9:33 pm Reply

small tip: would suggest blocking the drain whilst doing any upgrades incase any small screws or grubscrews fall down the drain hole

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