How to Install a Bathtub in Basement Bathrooms — by Home Repair Tutor

By Grover Koelpin No comments


In today’s video, we’re going to give
you quick tips on how to install an acrylic bathtub in a basement bathroom. Now remember, this is part of our video series
on how to build a basement bathroom on a concrete subfloor. And in our prior videos, we showed you how
to prep and self-level the concrete floor, and that makes the bathtub installation way
easier. So for today, we’re going to share tips
on how to install the bathtub, and hopefully, these will help you out with your project. The first step is to dry fit your bathtub
without connecting it to any pipes and ensure that it sits level. Okay, so we’re going to be installing a
Kohler tub in a concrete subfloor in a scenario where you don’t have any access to the back
of the shower, like we do here. I would definitely recommend a setup where
it’s just a slip ring type of drain assembly instead of an all-glued drain assembly. And the only reason I say that is because
this has a little bit more flexibility to move and get this to work with your plumbing. Whereas if you did a full glued-in fitting
system, which I like to do, but if you don’t have access to the back, it’s a lot more
difficult to have everything glued than it is to have a slip fitting type system. We’re going to use this Everbilt, so just
like a big box store drain assembly, but I like the cable type because it just makes
it easier. Basically just put together and you don’t
have to mess around with a flip lever and adjusting everything to make everything work. So the cable system’s kind of nice as well. For this model tub, you have to use 100% silicone
for all your joints. So whatever you do, just make sure it’s
100% silicone. I mean that’s absolutely required for this
Kohler tub. So we’ll put a little bit on the bottom
drain portion here. So we get our rubber ring here, and then I’ll
put a little bit more on the back end of that. And then we’ll put some on this portion
as well for where the receiver goes in. Be generous with it because you could wipe
this all off afterwards. As you’re putting the drain piece in, you
want to align it so that you can put your drain in over top of that silicone that was
applied to the bathtub. And then in this case, there’s a screw that
screws the two pieces together. You just want to get those nice and tight. Just make sure your rubber gasket is sitting
fine on there as well. Notice how Steve aligned the pipe to make
it straight as he’s tightening down on that screw a bit more; that’s really important. And then also to wipe any of the excess silicone
off the tub once you’re finished. Just try to evaluate where this… because
this drain assembly’s made for all different size tubs. So you’re going to have to cut this to fit. So make sure you don’t cut it too short. Just make a mark and see what that looks like. Notice how the waste overflow pipe lines up
with the other two pipes. And you want to get an accurate measurement
so that you can use this tool. This is really great—PVC cutting tool—to
just cut the pipe to size. Nice and accurate. It only costs about $10, $20. And always make sure your gasket has the wedge
edge towards your fitting. Make sure all the slip fittings are facing
the right direction and work properly. Because once the tub is set in place, it’s
a little bit hard to reach them just because it’s a basement bathtub. And you got a lot of playroom in here, so
you can just cut this anywhere within that area. So again, use your PVC cutting tool. This is really great for a bathtub installation
project. Install the slip fitting and washer properly
so that the tapered end of the washer faces down where it goes into the pipe. And then we’re going to dry fit all of these
pieces together, but we’re not going to permanently install them because it actually
got in the way with our studs. So this waste overflow, we’re just kind
of temporarily fitting it. So I wouldn’t tighten this completely yet
because we still got to test how this is going to line up with our main drain. So we’ll tighten that up once we establish
that. So on this type of drain assembly, I recommend
just using a slip ring adapter; that’s what you need to adjust on this. But I always leave this portion out until
I know exactly how high I need to have this. It’s really tough to gauge what you need. So if you had a plumber, just have him stick
it up wild, and then you can cut it. But preferably it’d be better if he just
didn’t even glue this section at all and just allowed you to cut this to fit. But this is basically the easiest way to…
because you basically slip this into here while setting the tub because there’s no
access behind here. So for right now, we’re going to take this
off of here and just make sure that our pipe lines up with this before we go gluing anything. Because one the tub’s in, you can’t even
reach this or do anything. You’re basically slipping that trap into
this at the same time that you’re setting the tub. Dry fit the bathtub a second time to ensure
that you can line up the pipe from the tub with the pipe coming up out of the floor from
the P-trap. Then apply PVC primer to all your PVC fittings,
and then apply glue to them as well, and put them together. So you want to piece them together; hold them
in place for a few seconds. For this, we’re going to be using some mortar,
Masonry Cement Type M mortar. We’re going to mix it up to kind of a thinner
consistency. And the reason why is we’re going to set
this Kohler tub into that. Now if you’re wondering, we don’t need
a stringer for this; so we don’t need a 2×4 stringer on the back wall. As you can see here, we lined up the pipe
from the tub into the pipe coming up out of the floor. And then we tightened down all the slip fittings
for those two pipes. And then this is something that we had to
do kind of on the fly as we had to piece together the waste overflow pipe from behind and ensure
that the rubber gasket was lined up with the back of the tub. And then we screwed the two pieces together
using that kit that we explained at the beginning of the video. And you just want to double-check that the
tub is completely level; this is important. And then for acrylic tubs, you want to predrill
the flange where it meets the 2x4s. Small little detail to make sure is… with
this, you can see how this flange is fairly flimsy. You just want to make sure that this level
right here… I mean if your tub is level, this should be
all sloping in towards the shower. But you never want to put too much pressure
down on this because then water could be sitting right against this edge. So just always kind of double-check this ledge. And if you even had to pull this up a little
bit to screw it in, I think that’s better than obviously sinking it down and making
this unlevel because the last thing you want to do is to have a whole bunch of water just
sitting at the edge of your tub. Again, same thing with this corner. It’s sloping in, so you just want to really
double-check that with these thinner wall tubs. We continually checked that the tub was level
while we were screwing it to the studs; really helps us determine whether or not this tub
was sitting correctly. And then we didn’t use drywall screws; we
just wanted to clarify. We used galvanized screws or stainless steel
screws to secure the tub to the studs. So this is what it looked like after we finished
with the installation. In our next video, we’ll give you tips on
how to install the Moen mixing valve for this tub/shower combo. Now here’s the deal, and this is really
cool: We’re building an online course that’ll show you step-by-step how we built this tub/shower
combo in a basement bathroom. That’s going to be awesome. But for now—we don’t have the course;
it’s not done yet—for now, we have a free guides that’ll give you 7 tips on how to
build basement bathrooms. So if you’re interested in that guide and
the online course, click right here. We’ll add you to our email list. We’ll immediately give you the guide today,
and we’ll let you know when the online course will be available. So again, click right here to be notified
of the course and get the free guide. Thanks for watching today’s video. If you have any questions, ask them down below
in the comments, and we’d be more than happy to help you out. Take care, and we’ll talk to you soon.

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