How to Fix Drywall in a Bathroom or Any Other Room (Step-by-Step) — by Home Repair Tutor
Oh boy! So today I’m going to show you how
to patch drywall, specifically a drywall ceiling like this one here because a few weeks ago
I had a pinhole leak, which I fixed, and I made that video tutorial. But for today, we’re
going to show you how to patch drywall quickly and easily. And in the end, so in the end,
we’re going to have an awesome surprise for you so don’t miss out on that. Let’s
dive into the tutorial right now. So this is my kitchen ceiling after the pinhole
leak repair. The first thing that you want to do is measure the thickness of your drywall.
So on the right side of the joist, I have 5/8”. On the left-hand side I have ½”.
This created a little bit of a problem for me down the road, which I’ll explain a bit
later. But get the thickness of your drywall. Then if you have a light in the ceiling, make
sure you turn the electricity off to it. Take a picture of the electrical configuration
before you undo it from the junction box. Remove it from the junction box, and cap all
the lines. And then stuff those lines back up into the ceiling.
You want to measure the widest part of the opening in your drywall and also the length
of the drywall piece that you’re going to need. Now I like to write this down because
I always forget the dimensions. So I write it down on a piece of paper. Fortunately,
I had an extra piece of purple board from another project. I just use my drywall square
to mar out the dimensions and cut it to size. So you can just use a utility knife to do
this. Very easy to do. It’s like only going to take you a few minutes.
Then what you’ll do is place that piece of drywall on your ceiling and trace the outline
of it using a marker. The reason why you’re going to do this is it gives you a clear guide
for cutting out that drywall. I just used a standard drywall knife. I tried to suck
up all the dust using a Shop-Vac. Now you can also score the drywall with a utility
knife and then cut it out using that same drywall saw.
Now you want to remove any of the screws or the nails using your hammer. Dry fit the piece
of drywall up into the ceiling. Now in my case it had to get some extra framing. I needed
to cut that to size because you definitely want to support your piece of drywall. So
I had to cut some framing to size for that. So this just came in the mail. This is Milwaukee’s
brand new M18 Fuel Impact Driver. It’s also One Key enabled. What does that mean, and
why should you care? Well you should care because now you can adjust the power on your
impact driver. So there are settings 1, 2, 3, and 4 on here. And you can use your smartphone
to set the speed for each setting. So you can customize this M18 One Key enabled impact
driver, and that is awesome. You need to download the Milwaukee One Key
tool app. By the way, you can also create a tool inventory for all the One Key tools.
And you want to set the modes on the app. So in this case, I’ve created Mode 1 for
screwdriver mode. I made the RPMs about 480 RPMs, and I labeled it screwdriver mode. And
then Mode 4, I maxed out the Beast Mode, which is for like drilling through cement, and so
on and so forth. Now what is nice is you just set it and forget it. You set these modes,
and then you’re done. So what I like about impact drivers these
days is the fact that you can actually get drill bits for them and drill through wood.
So I set Mode 3 for drilling through the framing that I’m going to be putting up in the ceiling.
So for Mode 3, I set that for my drill bits. And then Mode 4 I used—as you can see it
was powerful, my camera fell over. But Mode 4, I used that to drill the 3” deck screws
through those 2x2s. So I did that up in the ceiling for extra support of my drywall.
Then I marked the location of the framing—so the joists and the extra framing—with a
marker. Now I’m going to be using a special dimple bit with the Fuel Driver to drive through
four 1 ¼” drywall screws at the corners of my piece of drywall. The reason why I’m
doing that is it’s so much easier having predrilled screws in your piece of drywall
when you’re hoisting it above your head. That way you can just simply drill the screws
through the drywall into the framing and have it there so you can put the rest of the screws
in place. I put additional screws in every 12”.
So what I’m doing here is lining up the location of the recessed hole in my piece
of drywall with the other recess lights in my ceiling. Now I found this really cool adjustable
hole cutter at Depot, and I bought it because I needed to cut a recessed hole in my ceiling.
And the reason why I got it is it’s adjustable, and it comes with a pilot bit, which I really
like. And I have a 4” recess light up in my ceiling. So I set the setting to 4” , but
you can also set it for 6” recess lights or whatever recessed size hole that you need
in the ceiling. And that’s why I like this little tool. It also comes with that plastic
container so that when you’re drilling the hole in your drywall, it catches all of the
dust. And that’s nice, especially if you’re working in a place whereby you don’t want
to get dust all over the floor, like in the kitchen. So as you can see here, it worked
really, really well. The next step is to apply your tape to the
transition between the old drywall and the new drywall. I’m using mesh tape because
the paper tape will bubble up a little bit with the texture that’s on my existing kitchen
ceiling. Then I’m using Easy Sand 5. I mix that up
to about a milkshake consistency. I’m using Easy Sand 5 because I want this to set up
relatively quickly so I can put multiple coats on my ceiling in one day. So as you can see
here, I put on a thin layer of the Easy Sand 5 over the mesh tape and the existing drywall
screws in the new drywall. Now I’m going to be using Easy Sand 20 after
the 5 sets up. So after Easy Sand 5 sets up, I’m embedding Easy Sand 20 in the purple
board. I had to actually build that up a little bit so that it can meet up with the transition
of the different size pieces of drywall in my ceiling. Like I said I had ½” on one
side of that joist and 5/8” on the other side that created a little bit of a problem
for me later on in this video, which I will share with you. But anyhow, I’m using Easy
Sand 20 because it sets up in 20-30 minutes, depending on the temperature and the humidity.
This is how I built up all four side of the purple board. It’s a little bit of an arch,
and I’m not perfect. I’m definitely not a professional drywaller, but I do my best.
So I did this for all four sides of the purple board using a 10” knife.
Now after each successive coating of joint compound, make sure you clean you knives and
that they’re super clean as well as your pan. You want to knock down any high spots
using your knife. Now I’m going to be using a 12” joint compound knife to fill in that
purple board even more. Try to pay particular attention to the transitions, and try to make
them as even as possible. It’s definitely a challenge because of the existing texture
on my ceiling. But you can do this proves just like I did here. You can probably do
a better job than me if you pay close attention to those transition points. Now like I said,
you can do this for all four sides. And then you can smooth out the transition using a
damp sponge. I’m just using actually a grout sponge here to do that.
What I’m doing next is mixing up Easy Sand 90. You don’t want to whip it up too much
to create air bubbles. You want to do this nice and steadily. Create a consistency such
that when you use a texture brush like this one, it gives you the texture that you want.
So I like having a test piece of drywall and then applying that texture brush to the drywall
until I get the consistency that I want or that matches up with the texture that’s
on the ceiling. Now you can stamp this by hand, or you can put a pole in the end of
that texture brush and stamp your ceiling like I did here.
Now you have to prime the joint compound. And one of the best primers is Kilz. I’m
using a ½” nap roller because of the type of texture that I have on the ceiling. I’m
cutting in first around all the cabinetry. Then I’m going to roll on my primer, and
I’m going to paint over that with flat paint. As you can see here, you can still see a bit
of the imperfection in the ceiling. I’m okay with that. I’ll live with it. But if
you’re really paying attention to the detail, you won’t have the same mistake that I have.
It’s not perfect, but again, I’ll live with it.
So that’s how you patch drywall. Now here’s the surprise. We’re going to be giving away
one of these bad boys right here, the Milwaukee M18 Fuel One Key ¼” Impact Driver. It’s
a mouthful, but it is awesome. It’s now my new favorite impact driver. You’re going
to get this, two batteries, a charger, and a hard case. So how do you enter into the
giveaway? Well over here on YouTube down in the comments, tell me why you want this and
how it can help you with your own home improvement project. It’s really that simple. And I’m
going to choose one random winner by next week, before the next video comes out over
here on my YouTube channel. So you got one week to enter into this giveaway, and then
it goes away. This is a great reason to subscribe to my YouTube. If you missed out on the giveaway,
if you’re watching this in the future, or subscribe to the Home Repair Tutor newsletter
over on HomeRepairTutor.com. So that is it for today. I will see you next
week because a brand new video comes out every single Tuesday, 7am Eastern Standard Time
because we’re here in Pittsburgh. That’s it for today. I’ll see you in the comments.
Take care. Talk to you soon. I have drywall dust all over me. It’s in
my hair, in my beard, on my shirt. Oh my gosh, the joys of working with drywall on your house,