DITRA-HEAT Cable Installation: Schluter Curbless Shower (Part 6)

By Grover Koelpin 6 comments

In our prior video, we showed you how to plan
a DITRA-HEAT installation. Now, in today’s tutorial—oh and the by
the way, if you missed that video, we’re going to put it in this video so you can check
that out for yourself—but in today’s tutorial, we’re going to go back over: number one,
where you need to put the heat cable in the bathroom—so how to account for putting it
next to a vanity, the walls, and the plumbing; number two, we’re going to walk you through
the four tests that are required with DITRA-HEAT in order to get the 15-year warranty. If you do the three tests that are required,
you can get a 10-year warranty, but we’re going to show you how to do the fourth test. And then finally, we’re going to run the
cables so you see exactly what we did in this bathroom. Remember, we’re running the DITRA-HEAT cable
in the main bathroom floor area, then we have a second heat cable that’s going to go into
the curbless shower, and we’ll show you how to do that in the next video. But today, we’re going to focus on the main
bathroom floor. Oh and before I forget, at the beginning of
the video, we don’t have a microphone problem. We were just getting torrential downpours
of rain on Pittsburgh on that day. Okay, so we’re just going to install a little
piece of blue tape, indicating where our vanity will sit just to keep the wires and remind
ourselves not to go past this line. So standard vanities come out about 21 inches. So you won’t want to put any wire within
that area. So we want to stay two inches away from the
toe-kick of that vanity edge. So typically, a cabinet’s about 21 inches. A toe-kick will sit back about an inch, so
right to the middle of that tape. So if we stay away from our tape line with
the wire, we’ll be within the right amount of distance. Before we install the cables, the first thing
you have to do is do your initial test on the coil. So don’t take the wire off the spool. You want to do all the testing as it’s on
the spool. So we’ll fill out our warrant coverage information. On the end of the wire, there’ll be a little
tag, and it’ll say “product” on it. It’ll have a number on here. You want to fill that in for the identification
of this wire. That’s the identification number. And then it’ll say “factory value.” You want to put the 54.8 ohms that they’ve
basically have rated on here. And then go to ohms, and we’ll test it. So we’re at 55.2. We need it to be at 54.8. If you’re within 10%, that means everything’s
good. And then we’ll take one of these alligator
clips and put it onto the ground, and this’ll be checking to see if there’s any shortage
on the wire. This particular meter is reading 22 as being
infinity or open line. It really depends on what your meter means,
but most of the time you’re going to be seeing an “I” for infinity or “OL.” Okay, so this next test here will basically
give you another five years’ worth of warranty if you have a Megaohm Reader. Basically this is going to shoot a thousand
volts through this line and give you an insulation resistance test. If you’re able to obtain one of these devices
to be able to do this, you’ll get an extra five years’ warranty. Okay, so you put a thousand volts through
the line. Press “test.” As long as this is greater than a thousand,
then it’s working. In this meter, we’re going up to 2200, so
it’s saying>2200. That means that this is working the way it
should be. Then our next test is to test the floor sensor
that came with the wire. Basically, you need to know the temperature
that you have in your house at the time that you read. Right now, we’re probably about 86°. So we’re looking for a Resistance Ohms reading
of 8.3 or within 10% of that. So we’re about 8.5, so we’re within 10%. And another way that you can test to see if
this is working is actually just hold it between your fingers, and the number will go lower
as you increase the temperature of the sensor. So you could really tell whether this is working. As you could see, it keeps dropping as I’m
holding on to that sensor. And when I let it go, it will start rising
again. So you test this. We’ll have another cable for the shower
that we’ll be testing. And then the actual thermostat will have a
sensor wiring as well. Okay, so this is our second floor cable, and
this is specifically for the shower. And the main reason that we want to have a
separate feed for the shower is that if anything went wrong with this, you really shouldn’t
basically fix the wire within a wet area. So we’ll find the product number here. So we’ll get all the readings on this cable. So our first test is just the ohm reading. Go to ohm. Test it. And what you’re looking for is something
within 10% of what’s on this tag. So 70.5, and we’re at 70.6. So this is the factory, and this is what we
just tested right now. Okay, so the next test, putting this to ground,
and this is the conductor. So on this device, 22.00. So in this device, that means infinity. Okay, so this will run the thousand volts
into the system, and what we’re looking for is something greater than a thousand. And we’re greater than 2200, so this is
working properly. Then we test this floor sensor as well. You only need one floor sensor with the thermostat,
and we’re not going to be running a floor sensor into the shower for obvious reasons. You turn on the water in the shower and it’s
going to heat up that floor fairly quickly. And we got 8.9. It’s about 86° now, so we’re within reason. And then again, another way to test this is
just to actually hold on to the end of the sensor. If the number starts going down, then it’s
definitely reading the correct temperature. Okay, so we’re going to run our pulled leads
up through our conduit. I just have this fish wire. To connect to. Now you’re going to only want to have the
heated cable wires, the cold splice wires or the cold wires going up through this. You don’t want to bring anything heated
into the conduit. This is basically your cold splice. This will be sent into the floor. You don’t want to have anything beyond this
cold splice. You basically just don’t want to have the
heated wire into that conduit. From this point on has to be on the floor. The sensors are going to have to be run outside
of this conduit. So we’re only running the wires for the
heated cables into this line. So we’ll tape this on there to fish our
wires through. One of these holes from the box underneath
here, just inserting a chrome connector. Okay. We’ll put the floor sensors away for now. We’ll run the heated cable first. So basically when we run our wires, we want
to be at least two inches away from a wall, two inches away from, say, a vanity for instance. This is going to be a vanity here. So you want to be two inches away from that
toe-kick. Four inches away from plumbing. Seven from center on a toilet flange. Okay, when you run this cold splice, try to
keep it away from where you trim can be because, as you know, sometimes when you nail trim,
if you hit something hard or if you hit like a metal plate or something, it can come down
and hit your cold splice. So try to keep your wire coming out of the
conduit, and keep your cold splice further into the floor. Try to keep that as flat as possible within
those grooves. And on this connector scenario, we’ll bring
our heated cable to the shower along the side of the bathroom. So we want to make sure that we keep enough
space along the edge to bring that over to the shower. Okay, so we’re going to do a three-stud
spacing. So we’re going to have a shower panel, basically,
coming out to about 36 inches. So where we have this is basically right at
the entrance to our shower. I would step this back a minimum two studs
away from where the glass panel is going to be. But within the shower area, if we stay two
studs away from the edge of our drain, that’ll be within two inches from the fixture. So when we go to the next one, we’ll come
back a little bit because there’s no reason to have the heated wiring being underneath
of our channel where our glass panel will be. So you basically want to be four inches away
from the drain on here. So we’ll actually just step this back one
more where, again, our panel is going to come out here about 36 inches. So we’ll actually step this one back again. So then this will give us that four inches
from our drain. And make sure you’re seven inches away from
your toilet flange, from the center. And we finished running the cable such that
it ended right in front of the bathroom doorway. We had to do this a few times to get it right,
and that’s not a big deal because you just pull the cable off the DITRA-HEAT mat. And then we repeated all of our tests after
the cable was installed. That’s really important per your warranty. You need to fill out this entire warranty
sheet, this test log, so that you can then have that for reference. And then here’s the rain. It was just a torrential downpour that day. In the next video, we’re going to show you
how to run the DITRA-HEAT cable in to the curbless shower pan area. That’s going to be a really great video,
so make sure you subscribe to not miss out on that. The other thing is if you’re doing a bathroom
remodel or you’re building a shower from the ground up, definitely check out Bathroom
Repair Tutor. Just Google Bathroom Repair Tutor. The videos over there are step-by-step. They’re super detailed. We try to abide by the TCNA Handbook and all
the different codes that are out there. So it’s a phenomenal resource. Just Google Bathroom Repair Tutor, and you
can check it out for yourselves. So thanks for watching, and we’ll talk to
you soon.


Money Making Mike G.

Oct 10, 2019, 7:47 pm Reply

These videos are seriously some of the very few detailed series out there that legit explain stuff. Other channels will tell you they are a resource for tasks like this but, all you get is a time-lapse with music in it. Hope all is well guys & Dirty Jersey out!!!!


Oct 10, 2019, 3:13 am Reply

Great explanation, especially the way the cable exits the conduit onto the floor. I really like Steve’s Fluke meter, very cool.

chris simon

Oct 10, 2019, 6:50 pm Reply

You guys are always on point with your videos, love it!!!

Mark Leukus

Nov 11, 2019, 9:32 pm Reply

Do you a link for the meter you are using?

ivan t

Nov 11, 2019, 1:15 am Reply

So what was wrong with the wire ending at the entrance? The explanation of that matter was not so clear to me, sorry if I missed something.

Mike Clarke

Nov 11, 2019, 12:06 am Reply

Thank you so much for the video.

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